bon appetit bumbles
while seeking a smutty magazine to read over coffee this afternoon at mcnally’s, i was stopped short by, of all things, this month’s issue of bon appetit. though there were fewer exclamation points and far less usage of words like “tasty” and “super-cool”, i couldn’t help but think of “everyday with rachael ray”. fortunately her irritating, colgate smile was missing, as well.
i guess i shouldn’t have been shocked. i’d been given a heads up by grub street (http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/12/face_it_bon_appetit_youre_neve.html) that the magazine was going to revamp its look in order to appeal to younger customers. to summarize, grub street doesn’t believe that this make-over is comprehensive enough to conceal the old lady hiding among the pages. they see the publication as one only interesting to those with too much time and long dining room tables on their hands. too many recipes, says grub street, “there should be more about chefs and trends and ingredients and culinary culture.”
oh, like gourmet and food and wine and saveur and cooking light and everyday with rachael ray? maybe adding an extra “a” somewhere would draw the younger crowd (and, then, coincidentally, the advertisers desperate to cater to them).
more copies of bon appetit have arrived at my childhood home over the years than any other publication. as far back as elementary school, if i wanted to make dinner or indulge a sugar craving, i’d end up on the kitchen floor in a soup of dog-eared, grease stained bon appetit’s searching for a new recipe (often long enough that i’d miss the dinner-making window). for me, making a dessert is less about consuming the final product and more about the process. bon appetit has always been the magazine able to provide me with the quadruple layer, frosted, meringued, carmelized, nut studded, three stick of butter needing, chill-over night concoction i’m searching for.
sometimes i want to read about culinary culture or celebrity chefs; it’s easy to find publications centered around both (and there’s always grub street). sometimes i want to have a plethora of elaborate dessert recipes at my fingertips. thus, i need bon appetit.